I’ve seen so many 10" servers that look amazing from the front and very polished, but then having a rats nest of cables and a mess at the back.
After 62 iterations and many 3D prints, blood, sweat, profanity and tears. I my design and implementation is finally done.

I used Hexagons where possible, because as you know, Hexagons are the bestagons
This is Before:

And the After:

The ducky adds 200MHz
The front of my mini-rack is actually still somewhat of a mess, I thought I’d focus on the back first.
I’ve published it in excruciating detail on my GitHub Leave a Star if you like what you see.
I self host a bunch of stuff on here to get away from Big-Tech, and because I find it fun. For a lot more details see https://erasmus.works/
It always bothered me the the fronts of racs are modular, but not the backs, this solves that
If you have any questions feel free to ask, hopefully this helps other clear up their rats nests.
Cool build. Please be aware there is a reason that Sockets are made from a plastic that does not melt nor burn. Everything near power connections is a potential fire hazard.
Thanks yea I made sure to add this Safety section to my write-up on how to build this yourself, and I reference back to it a lot, so it’s painfully clear.
I printed this in PETG which can take the heat easily, but ideally you use UL 94 V-0 which is also flame retardant.
I did make sure everything is very well insulated, and pulled hard on every connection to make sure it’s held down properly.
**Safety** This part carries live mains. Mains wiring kills people who get it wrong, and a fault in a printed enclosure can start a fire. Do not build it unless you are competent to wire mains and permitted to do so where you live. Sleeve or shroud all live terminals. PLA softens around 60 °C, PETG around 80 °C. Neither is flame retardant. Only a UL 94 V-0 filament is. Wire the protective earth if anything you plug in needs it. Build it at your own risk. I take no responsibility for injury, death, fire, or damage resulting from anything in this repository.Ya. I don’t run more than 5A (basically a usb) through 3d printed stuff for that reason. Filament is designed to melt.
You run 5 amps through a USB?
USB-PD standard allows for 20V at 5A?
You mean 5W?
I was assuming some kind of 3.3V or 5V logic, like an esp32 or an arduino. I don’t mess around with big power circuits at all. If I inject power it’s going to be pretty low wattage. Sorry for the confusion.