https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Traffic_bollard
“Traffic bollards” or “flexible bollards” seem to be the terms for this type of bollard. They’re intended to guide traffic, rather than to stop it dead as a security measure.
https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Traffic_bollard
“Traffic bollards” or “flexible bollards” seem to be the terms for this type of bollard. They’re intended to guide traffic, rather than to stop it dead as a security measure.
Nylock nuts are the way. No thread-locker needed on them.
I always keep some zip-up ties in my riding gear. If I pass a parked bike with a missing license plate bolt, I’ll zip-tie it back into place.
Check that each leg of the stator is good by checking that each yellow wire has about 0.3 - 0.4 ohms resistance against the other yellow wires, and that none of the yellow wires have continuity to ground. If one leg of your stator goes bad, it can overtax the remaining leg(s).
Corrosion causes resistance, which creates heat and lower voltage. Are just the connectors corroded, or are the wires also corroded?
To clean connectors, I use DeOxit. Spray it on, then plug and unplug the connector a few times. If that’s not enough, I use a soft, brass bristle brush. If that’s not enough to clean the connector to gleaming, then I replace the connector.
Incidentally, it’s common for motorcycles to barely charge at idle. You often don’t hit a 13.2 - 14.4V cutoff until a few thousand RPM.
Luckily, I know something that would probably help her get over the trauma…